The first step in assessing the condition of the planting site is to examine the soil. Is it sandy and well drained? Is it moist with some organic material? Is it heavy clay and, therefore, wet and perhaps compacted? Construction practices such as cutting and filling, installation of underground utilities, and backfilling against foundations can create great diversity in soil structure. This variability can change drastically with depth and between planting locations on the same property—investigate each planting site.

Soil texture and drainage are closely related. Sandy soils usually are very well drained, have large pore spaces, and poor water-holding capabilities. They are usually associated with dry conditions. Conversely, clayey soils have much smaller pore spaces, are poorly drained, and can suffocate plant roots. The pore spaces in soil are very important to plant growth because the oxygen that occupies them is essential to healthy roots. A tree planted in poorly drained soil will be slow to establish, lack vigor, and often will slowly die.

Because plant roots require both moisture and oxygen for growth, soil drainage should be checked before planting. A poorly drained soil, high in moisture but low in oxygen, prevents both proper root development and growth of beneficial soil micro-organisms that are responsible for decomposing organic matter and releasing plant nutrients.

1. Bare Root. Bare root plants are dug from nursery fields in the fall or spring. Soil is removed from the roots, and plants are held in humidity and temperature controlled storage over winter. They must be planted in early spring before growth begins. Because many roots are cut during field digging, bare root plants suffer severely from transplanting shock. Bare root stock is normally the least expensive, but if handled improperly, can have the highest mortality. When handling or transporting bare root stock, keep the roots moist and protected from sun and wind at all times.

2. Packaged. Packaged trees and shrubs are bare root plants with their roots packed in moist material such as peat moss or shingle tow. Plant them in early spring before growth starts. Keep packing materials moist, and the package cool and shaded until planted. These plants should be treated as bare root plants.

3. Field-Potted. Field-potted nursery stock are field-grown plants dug with a ball of field soil intact which is then placed as is, in a container. These plants should be sold and planted during the spring, as field soil will not provide good plant growth in a container. It is important that the root ball be disturbed as little as possible during the digging and planting process.

4. Containerized. Containerized trees and shrubs are dug from the nursery in the spring or fall as bare root stock, placed in a container with a special growing medium, and sold in the container. If containerized in early spring, most plants will be sufficiently established in the container and can be transplanted in late spring, summer, or fall. Roots must be established in the container and hold the media together before transplanting. Do not completely break up the root ball at planting time, but do cut any circling roots prior to planting. The tighter the root ball, the more the root system should be disturbed.

5. Container Grown. Container grown stock has been growing in a container throughout most of its production. Because the roots of these plants are not disturbed at the time of planting, container grown plants suffer little transplant shock and may be planted at any time during the growing season. Plants that have outgrown their containers may have deformed root systems, which can result in girdling roots. Large plants may be root bound in the container. The root ball of these plants must be torn or cut open to eliminate subsequent circling or girdling roots.

6. Balled and Burlapped (B & B). Balled and burlapped trees and shrubs are dug with a firm ball of soil around the roots, and held securely in place with burlap, twine, and sometimes a wire basket. A broken, damaged, or dry soil ball can result in serious damage to the roots. The stem should not wobble in the soil ball. Because of the weight of the soil ball, B & B trees can be difficult to transport and plant without special equipment. B & B stock is often the most expensive, but if handled and planted properly, is as reliable as container grown stock. Always lift B & B plants from beneath the ball, never by the stem. B & B stock can be planted in spring, summer, and fall.

7. Tree Spade. Larger plants are often moved with a tree spade—a machine that digs a mass of soil including the plant and some of its roots. The plant and root ball may stay in the machine until it is planted into a pre-dug matching hole, or it may be placed in a wire basket lined with burlap. The size of the root ball is critical and species dependent. An experienced machine operator can make the difference between success and failure. Matching soils from the digging site to the planting site is also important, as is compaction within the planting hole. Roughing up the sides of the hole can offset some of this compaction. Plants can be moved in most seasons with a spade, although plants dug in summer and early fall should have an oversized ball and receive special attention relative to species, condition, handling, and irrigation. Prior to planting with a tree spade, locate all utilities to prevent cutting through wires, cables, etc.

Successful planting starts with proper site preparation. Digging the hole for a new plant is the first step. The hole should be at least 1-2 feet wider than the size of the root system (except for direct tree spade planted trees). A larger hole will allow better root growth, especially in poor soil. Roughen the sides of the hole with a shovel and make the hole as wide or wider at the bottom than at the top.

Planting depth is critical. For compacted clay soils or poorly drained soils, plants should be planted at, or slightly higher than, the depth that they drew in the nursery. A good rule of thumb for B & B plants is to plant the tree or shrub so that almost 1/3 or the height of the soil ball is above ground level after planting. This will improve oxygen availability to the roots. Allow for settling, especially if the hole has been dug deep and backfilled. Air pockets should be eliminated by watering during and after backfilling. Poor soils can be amended with organic material or loamy top soil depending on the improvement needed. Peat is not recommended for poorly drained, clayey soils, as it can act as a sump and draw too much water into the planting hole. Never completely backfill with a soil amendment; only create a transition zone to the existing soil where the roots must eventually grow. Too much soil amendment can create moisture gradients and cause roots to be confined to the planting hole. Remove rocks and debris from the hole and never put rocks or gravel in the bottom of the hole to improve drainage unless it is connected to a drain tile.